Rustic Japan -A Guide to Rural Japan & Off-the-Beaten-Path Countryside- 日本語

Chubu & Hokuriku

Sado Island: The Sado Gold Mine and Sushi Minshuku Nagahamaso

Niigata Prefecture

Sashimi platter on a bridge-shaped wooden stand, with sea bream head, tuna, salmon, turban shell, and lemon slices
Where
Niigata Prefecture
When
July 2026, 3 days, 2 nights
Route
Tokyo Station → (JR Shinkansen Toki, 2 hours) → Niigata Station → (taxi, 10 min) → Niigata Port → (Sado Kisen ferry, 2 hours 30 min) → Sado Island → rental car
Cost
¥60,000

The Sado Gold Mine on Sado Island became a World Heritage Site in 2024. I like mines and minerals, and Iwami Ginzan and the Besshi Copper Mine are favorites of mine. Add the Sado Gold Mine, and I’ll have gold, silver and copper. The full set.

I buy a ticket at the entrance to the gold mine. Even in midsummer, cold air pours out of the mine’s mouth. It’s almost too cold for short sleeves.

Timber-framed entrance to the Sodayu Tunnel at the Sado Gold Mine, with a Sado Gold Mine marker post amid green foliage

Visitors walking along a dim boardwalk through a rough rock tunnel inside the Sado Gold Mine on Sado Island

Inside the mine, mannequins re-create the work of miners long ago. Maybe, in a past life, I was one of them, digging.

Mannequins of Edo-era kanahori-daiku miners digging ore with hammers and chisels in a tunnel at the Sado Gold Mine

I’ve heard that miners died young. They never kept money past the night. Live hard, live short. As a way of living, perhaps there’s something vivid in that.

Mannequins of Edo-period miners draining water with wooden Archimedean screw pumps (suisho-rin) in a Sado Gold Mine tunnel

Out the other side of the mine, you can see a mountain split in two. Apparently it’s what remains of digging down from the summit in search of the gold vein. Human greed reshapes even the land.

Doyu no Warito, a green mountain split in two at the summit, behind a lawn with a wooden sign on a sunny summer day

I come down from the mine and head for tonight’s lodging, the sushi minshuku (family-run guesthouse) Nagahamaso. I’ve heard dinner is lavish, but…

Dinner at the Nagahamaso minshuku: sashimi on a bridge-shaped platter, a boiled crab, grilled salmon, tempura, side dishes and sushi

Not just sushi: there was sashimi, and even crab! All this for just over ¥10,000 a night. Cheap…!

Sashimi platter on a bridge-shaped tray with sea bream head, tuna, salmon, turban shell, lemon and bamboo leaves

A whole boiled crab on a blue-and-white plate on a lacquered table, with grilled salmon and a small hot pot behind

The futons are thin and hard to sleep on, but weighed against how good dinner was, it’s nothing.

A good meal, and I’m content. Tomorrow, I’ll go and see the toki (the crested ibis).

To be continued